Didgeridoo

The music in Australia is one of the things I will always remember about this country.

(I'm a musician myself and have always considered music to be one of the simple joys of life). I don't think I'll ever forget the sounds of the Australian Didgeridoo's. We heard them many times as we traveled along the coast.



I'd have to agree (as Aborigine's do) that the Didgeridoo's do MORE than just express music. (sounds like I'm shearing sheep again).



I found them to have a "magical quality" as I listened to them in the hands of an expert. The Aborigines consider them "sacred" because of the unique 'tonal' qualities the instrument. Most tribes only allow the men to play the Didgeridoo's.



When looking for the wood to make these instruments, it's necessary to 'rap' the tree with a stick. When you hear the 'hollow' sound of the wood, you've got the right tree. (it's caused by termites). They eat the "center of the trees" and leave a resonant structure which produces the didgeridoo's unique qualities.


Tree's cut at different lengths produce varying 'pitches'. Bee's wax is used to create a mouthpiece on the end of the instrument. So much for the technical side.....

But the 'art' is the 'technique' of the musician!

A good player can produce sounds from this instrument for as long as an hour by using a technique called "circular breathing". He actually (I know this sounds contradictory) exhales air from his lungs and inhales 'in' through his 'nose' at the same time! This takes a LOT of practice and sounds impossible to most people.

The 'drone' sound is created in this manner and they have developed techniques to mimic the sounds of the animals in the bush. I can visualize many of the Kangaroos, Dingo's, and all kinds of exotic birds, as they imitate their sounds with the Didgeridoo's.

They're used especially in ceremonial dances and gatherings before hunts. I found the spear to especially interesting. With an extended wooden hook, they can throw these so fast that they quiver as they travel through the air.

You never want to find yourself on the receiving end of one of these. They're very deadly and very accurate!

Penguin's in Australia

I wish that I could actually have taken a picture of the Australia Penguin. But like all wildlife, they don't pose for photographers, and sometimes, they just don't show up when and where you think they might appear. (Even when tourist guides build elaborate structures hanging on the edge of cliffs to view them).

Such was the case when we took one of the "wildest rides" I've ever taken, above the cliffs, to get to the viewing area. But it just wasn't meant to be. (As I was hanging on for "dear life" and unable to take pictures again). The only way to get here was a jarring ride on a six wheel All Terrain Vehicle. It required keeping both hands "knuckle white" on the nearest railing to avoid being pitched out of the ATV.

And on another note, little did we realize just how HOT the Australian Sun could be out here.

We were about to travel to a new area where the temperatures were in the 100's. It's hard to imagine the heat being this high, but the center of Australia was the hottest on record while we were there.

How hot?.....How about 125 degrees? Unbelievable......

We were fortunate to only experience 101, (at the Great Barrier Reef) , but parts of Australia experienced "wild fires" with winds of 60+ mph. and there were well over 200 lives lost due to the fires this year. It was unimaginable to think of a fire moving so fast that homes literally "exploded and vaporized" before their eyes.

It was a horrible experience for many hundreds more, that lost everything they had accumulated in their lifetime. Many were fortunate to escape with their lives.

Campfire

I've always envied those that have this skill. (especially when they make it look this easy).

Believe me....it's NOT an easy thing to do, it takes a LOT of time to make "starting a campfire" using this method. (only about 3 minutes in the hands of a professional).

I spend a LOT of time outdoors, and routinely build a fire in a "cold drizzling rain" but my son and I have some nice rock overhangs in the woods. We keep "dry kindling" and small bundles of "dry wood" just for this occasion. (and we use a butane lighter) I've always said "fire" can be your "best friend" or your "worst enemy". It depends on how you control it and which way the wind is blowing.

Here's some "real professionals" creating a warm fire for dinner and to stave off the night chill in the middle of Australia.

They make it look SO easy....It would be a VERY good thing to have these guys with you out in the "bush". They're masters at surviving, with a little bit of nothing. They don't need matches, and can snare, trap, and gather all the necessities they need in the outback.

And be comfortable while doing it.

We've lost these skills living in the modern world today.

Kangaroo's

It was a long trip to Kangaroo Country (Australia) but worth all the effort. I've always wanted to get close to these creatures because they're so unusual. (don't see many in America) I assumed we would have to be in the interior of Australia but was mistaken. These guys were in a big field next to a busy highway. It's fenced, but a Kangaroo can jump a 10 ft. fence like it wasn't even there. The hind legs are powerful, and (believe it or not) can be quite lethal, if they should decide to pounce on you.

Take a look at the "nails" on this guy!

If they hit you just right, they could disembowel you, quicker than you can skin a jack rabbit. Fortunately they avoided us, for the most part, and at times you could get pretty close to them.

Tasmanian Devils

Nap Time


Play Time


Dinner Time

Little Devils

After a few days of sailing, we arrived in Tasmania, and it was good to get our feet back on solid land once again.

I liked this country and our first stop was "Russell Falls". It was a short hike through the lush tropical forest and we saw our first wildlife. There were Wallabies everywhere as we slowly moved through the forest and listened to the birds singing in the tree tops.

It's been really, really, dry here this summer and there was hardly ANY water cascading down the rock face of the falls.

As we drove around towards Hobart, and returned to the city, we stopped at a "wildlife sanctuary" that cared for misplaced and injured animals. We saw Kiwi, Kangaroos, and the famous Tasmanian Devils.

The Tasmanian Devil's only survive and thrive here in this country, but they're VERY endangered now, due to a "CANCER" that attacks the facial area of the animal. This place was very PROUD of their "devils" and were successful at breeding a few, with the hopes of producing new animals that might be "immune" to this terrible disease.

They're sort of "cute" when young, but don't let their appearance fool you. As they become mature they're quite viscous.

I've heard few sounds as disturbing, as their voices, when they're agitated and defending their territory.

I wish we could have stayed longer to observe them more closely and maybe get a "sound clip" of their hisses, spits, growls, and shrieking amongst themselves.

I've watched the TV cartoons of their antics and I'd have to say, they're accurately portrayed as a whirlwind of energy to be take very seriously. These little guys have "six times" the bite of a Pit Bull. They can sure do a number on you, if put in the "defense mode".

Like any rare, wild animal, I hope a cure can be discovered for the "Cancer" that is quickly destroying these unique creatures! There's no cure (as of today) and thier species is on the verge of destruction.

Hot Time and Getting Hotter

We didn't realize how "HOT" the temperature was actually going to be, on the next leg of our journey towards Australia. It was comparable to the "hot springs" in Rotorua in New Zealand.

Some people would consider these the "Nostrils of Satin" , or at least "a Devil of a Place to Live".

But at least you could get away from the heat by "just walking away". It wouldn't be so easy in Tasmania and Australia. These two places are among the most "rainless" places on earth.

It took a few days to arrive in Tasmania and we spent time in Hobart. The joke here is: (completely unfounded) "Be careful where you leave your possessions laying around here".

It seems the vast majority of its citizens are the result of "prison labor gangs" and MOST of the "early infrastructure" built here, was produced by those actually too poor to survive in England. I hate to think of early "debtor prisons" where you could be incarcerated for stealing a piece of clothing or some food to keep from starving to death.

Most of these prisoners (not to say all) were "shipped" here to work off "convictions of petty crimes". I'm sure glad this isn't LEGAL today!

I'm sure it was a "devil" of a place to live, in the early times, but it's actually a very comfortable pleasant place to live now.

In Tasmania, there are a few "unique" creatures living here (and only here).

I'll post some pictures on the next entry.

Rotorua Washing Machine

I can't help but think of the very first people to discover this area of "hot pools" and "geysers" in New Zealand. I had not seen anything like this since visiting Yellowstone National Park many years ago.





And I can only imagine the "surprise" a group of workers experienced as they were washing in this "cone". They inadvertently allowed "soap" to enter, which was (at the time) nothing more than a "washtub" to clean their dirty clothes.




It seems "common soap" breaks the surface tension of the underlining "scalding water" below the ground just a few feet. In Yellowstone National Park, the eruption of "Old Faithful" can be predicted with the second hand on a clock. This geyser in Rotorua just takes a little "soap" to set it off.





It must have hysterical to see a dozen naked guys trying to recover their clothes, blown to heaven, and trying to avoid scalding water raining down out of the washing machine!

Good Dog!

I've always heard people say "a dog is mans best friend" but in sheep country, it's especially true. You can't put a monetary value on these animals. I guess it's another way of saying "All That's Gold Doesn't Glitter".

"The Lord of the Rings" was filmed in this area and everywhere I looked, I expected to see a hobbit in the background. I can see why the producers choose this area to film the movie. The hills are gentle, rolling, and on a clear day, you can see for miles.

Shearing Sheep

How many sheep can a Sheep Shearer shear if a Sheep Shearer can really shear sheep? The average Sheep Shearer can shear about 150 a day. (sort of ties up the tongue doesn't it?) But some are capable of much more....

The record (1990) is actually held by New Zealander Alan MacDonald, who did 805 lambs in a nine hours. That's a LOT of sheep! (I wonder how many ears and tails were clipped).

Merino Wool is cherished in both New Zealand and Australia. Australian Possum fur is sometimes blended together for clothing. I bought a toboggan like this just before we left New Zealand. I've found it excellent for warmth and water resistance.

I'd often wondered how difficult a job this was, and the guy that did this lamb said the "key"

is to lift the sheep slightly off the ground before starting the process of shearing. He said they become ...well, "docile as a lamb". Nothing to it......


I would imagine it's a different thing doing this for nine hours a day?

The City and the Country

I like BIG cities, but I do can without the hoards of people and noise that accompanies these busy places. Whenever possible, I like to spend time in the country, where natures "peace and harmony" brings a freshness to the air.

There's a LOT of SHEEP in New Zealand.

The country in New Zealand, is totally different from the United States . I noticed a "somewhat barren" but comfortable landscape with smaller trees in most places. This is due, in a large part, to the "Australian Possum". New Zealand has spent "Millions of Dollars" trying to control these creatures because of the damage they do to growing plants, trees, and shrubs.

This cottage, out in the country, is about as different from the city as you can imagine.

The Sky Tower

Every big city has it's "sky line" and Auckland is no exception. The Sky Tower is visible from anywhere in the city. (That's the tall cylinder structure in the center of this picture).

Our hotel was right next to it and we had dinner there one night. We watched the city slowly 'swirl' around beneath us from the revolving platform. As the restaurant moved around slowly (for a 360 degree view of the city) I couldn't help but notice a few "steel cables" draping down the sides towards the ground.

It finally dawned on me that this was the "jumping" platform where "adrenalin junkies" plummet 1,076 ft at 85 Kph in 11 seconds to the street below.

WOW....what a rush!

It's difficult to see from the above picture, but there is a guy "hanging" in thin air and about to begin the decent. (be sure to click on the "sky tower" link above to watch this show).

I clipped and pasted a "zoom in" so you can see him.

I actually thought about doing this for a moment.

When I turned 50, I bungee jumped (head first) off a 175 ft. crane in Charleston, as a celebration of gracefully aging . This jump was a little higher in the air.... (1,076 ft.)

I have no doubt I could have done it but wasn't so sure my heart would still be beating when I reached the ground.

I should wait until I'm at least 70 before trying this!

Auckland New Zealand

I've only heard "good things" about New Zealand. As a matter of fact, I've never talked to anyone who has visited there, that didn't think it was a wonderful place. We spent a few days in Auckland just taking in the sights, and either boarding a "ferry" to a neighboring Island, or riding the local bus around town.

I was impressed with the transportation system here because it was very inexpensive, reliable, spotlessly clean, and modern. If you look closely at the above picture, you will see a rectangular box on the upper right hand side of the bus. It's actually a NICE "live" monitor with the bus route, and stops, displayed on a LCD screen. The bus is "tracked" (GPS) and displayed in "real time" as it moves through the city. Every stop is announced in a "clear digital voice" as it approaches the next stop!

They're very "sports minded" in New Zealand and we often saw hoards of cyclist on the ferry as we traveled from Island to Island. Cricket and Rugby are the national games. I liked watching them both and will try to read up and understand the "fine points" of the games.

Rugby is probably the toughest game I've ever seen....These guys play to win!

We stopped many times to grab a bit of food or coffee.

Rarotonga in the Cook Islands

I like the simple life and life doesn't get any simpler than this....

Marilyn and I stopped here for a few days to break up the long flight to New Zealand and onward to Australia. (We were here a few years ago while visiting Tahiti and knew of all the luxuries on this island and couldn't wait to get back and enjoy them again).

I love these kind of places. The locals call it Paradise and (for me) I think it's an accurate statement. You can live off the land here as long as your diet includes fish and coconuts.

All our personal travel was by "bike" here although there are "two" community buses that run the perimeter of the 20 mile circumference of the island. One bus runs "clockwise" and the other runs "counter clockwise". Those that travel from the far side of Rarotonga sometimes use motor scooters or small cars to get to work at the tourist places but it's entirely possible to use a bike for everything.

Marilyn and I rode at least 10 miles, stopped for lunch at a local grocery store, and had a GREAT time taking in the sights here.



The snorkeling is excellent and we enjoyed swimming around a small "Motu" just off the coast a few hundred yards. This place was a LOT different from the snow and ice we left back in West Virginia.



Rarotonga is one of 15 islands in this "chain" and the youngest of them all. The mountains (elevation about 2000 ft) are very "sharp" and "defined" because of the (in geological time) erosion. There is a hiking trail that cuts across the center of the island that can be hiked in a days time. (if you're in good shape).


I love the music here!


You shouldn't miss the "drumming" and "dancing" if you get the chance to experience it.
As a matter of fact...you can hear it here: Radio Cook Islands

I've been listening to it while typing this brief summary of our time there. It's the ONLY radio station in the area, and via Internet streaming, it's passed along to the other islands in this area too.


The local people are true Polynesians....the "finest seafarers in the Pacific". As late as 1995 they built a giant "Vaka" (the Te Au O Te Tonga) and sailed it from Rarotonga to Tahiti and then to Hawaii.

Geocaching in the Gunks

For several years, I've been an avid "Geocacher". I've found over 100 "caches" hidden everywhere from "brick walls", behind "waterfalls", to hanging from tree limbs.

This morning, we took a "long" hike to find the "Lost City Cache". It took us ALL day to find this one and return to the Mountain House. The "round trip" distance was around 8 miles...

(this game isn't for wimps!)

This was probably the "longest" trek I've done to find a cache.

We took a hearty lunch with us and carried the "appropriate gear" (in case of an emergency). This is a "rocky" area and easily can turn into a survival trek.

The co-ordinates, for the hidden cache, are posted on the web (that's the easy part) but the "challenge" is "getting from "point A to point B". It takes a little planning (especially if you're in an unfamiliar area) to figure out the best "path" to the cache site. We found a "trail head" a few miles from the cache and followed the GPS signal to the "Lost City".

At about the four mile mark, I realized the cache was probably hidden in this "rock wall". The "satellite signal" bounces around a bit, in these close spots.

It's VERY important to have a partner close by in case of a slip on a wet rock or a loose hand hold.

I won't give away the "exact spot" (where the cache was hidden) but you can imagine the "hiding spots" on this rock face. I'll just say, "It's somewhere that takes a few feet of rope to find the prize". It took me a little over half an hour to find this hidden cache.

What a great excuse to spend a day outdoors!

An Early Morning Walk

Sometimes....... you're fortunate to be in the right place at the right time. That was the case when we hiked up to the "Lily Pond", one early foggy morning near "Smileys Tower". It's not a long hike, but the mist was thick as a light rain, and we could hear a chorus of frogs singing from many yards away. We were soaked by the time we got there.

The frogs sensed us immediately, and stopped for a bit, before deciding to continue the Symphony. (you can never be too safe in a natural area)

I've never heard a Symphony like this one, and have never heard another since then. I wish I had taken a recorder with me but you can't carry everything all the time.

It was Amazingly Supreme

The slightest movement would have interrupted the entire pond, so we sat absolutely motionless for almost 20 minutes before a deer brought the songs to a halt. It seemed like some of the frogs were large as a small squirrel. They sang the base notes....

The longer we sat, the more movement became apparent around us. Before hiking back down, we saw a porcupine from atop "Smileys Tower".

Treasure in the Woods

The real treasure at the "Mountain House" (to us) isn't in the house, it's in the woods. This entire area is both a "nature sanctuary" and one of the best examples of "harmony with nature" I've ever seen.

It's not unusual to see eagles, falcons, fox, bear, beaver, bobcats, and porcupines in this area. This is a VERY diverse place and hiking here can allow the early walker to see and experience it all. They have an excellent nature program here and we've been fortunate to view several different ones while staying here.

On our last trip , we were again fortunate enough to find this fellow giving a lecture and slide show: "Global Learning Inc."

Our favorite way to enjoy the Mountain House is to spend a day outdoors.

The shortest hike to a nice overlook is here.

Marilyn and I can spend an entire day hiking in these woods.